Jadeja Embroidery

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Jadeja Embroidery

Historically, as early as AD 712 the first band of Samma Rajputs, who claim genesis from Syria and Iran, infiltrated Kutch from Sindh, under the leadership of Jam Lakha. His sons Mod and Manai established an independent kingdom in Kutch that lasted upto AD 1009. Puma Ra and Jam Lakha Fulani were powerful Samma rulers during this period in Kutch.

During the mid 13th century AD, there was a fresh influx of princely adventures into Kutch from the ancient Samma ruling house in Sindh. A Rajput prince named Lakho accompanied by his twin brother, Lakhiar, arrived in Kutch in AD 1147 with a force of adventurous followers. Lakho soon carved for himself a kingdom with its capital at Lakhiarvira. Lakhos descendants came to be known as Jadejas after his father Jada.

Most of the Jadejas living in Kutch today are either descendants or kinsmen of the Samma Rajputs who had migrated from Sindh during the time of the Samma Rajput rulers. Many members of the Jadeja community hold leading positions in various professions.

The ruling and warring background of the Jadeja men provided their women with ample leisure time, which they skilfully utilised in transforming their artistic fantasies into marvelous works of needlecraft. Unfortunately, most Jadeja women no longer practice their rich traditional embroidery and it is only in remote villages that one can still find the stupendous perfection of former Jadeja artistry. It is extremely difficult to obtain pieces of Jadeja embroidery that have retained their original purity. Their lovely patch-work craft has practically faded into oblivion. The few families who have started to commercialise their craft have simplified their exemplary stitches and designs to a great extent.

Mochi embroidery was the famous court embroidery of Kutch from the 16th century to the 19th century and Jadeja embroidery has captured their style and incorporated it within their own needlecraft while retaining their own unique flavour. Over time, they also borrowed elements of design from their neighbours, like the Ahirs, Rabaris, Charans and Kathis.

Many Jadeja rulers earnestly promoted and fostered fine arts in Kutch. Heritage Kutchi artworks are displayed in the Kutch Museum at Bhuj, which was established by Maharao Khengarji III in 1877. The Aaina Mahal (Palace of Mirrors) was built in the 1750s by Rao Lakhpatji. Its chief architect was Ram Singh Malam, who spent 18 years in Europe and brought back Indo-European architectural styles to design the palace. It was designed by his master craftsman Ram Singh Malam in both Kutchi and European styles, after his return from Holland, where he was ship wrecked. Both these museums house a fine collection of Kutchi silver and gold items, enamel work, textiles, wood work, coins, old utensils, arms and other archaeological objects. Although both buildings were severely damaged in the earthquake in 2001, they have been restored and most of the artifacts recovered.

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